I've somehow finished reading this entire thread and I have a few questions remaining.
Slight crosspost from another thread>
Quote:
Originally Posted by RotARy15
My plan at the moment is to keep it mostly stock. I'm in an interesting situation with my FD. I was slowly building it to be track worthy (must control thermal runaway...) but at this point, I need proper facilities to complete some of the work. So for now I am going to keep things simple as the BRZ is not intended to be a track toy, yet. It replaced my 03 NB as a daily driver. And will be serving as a track-able daily until I get the FD finished or give up and sell it at which point I will start making spectacularly stupid decisions with the BRZ.
I haven't decided on width for track wheels yet and my biggest hangup is that it depends on suspension mods. I'd like at least 245's but best I can tell, a 9 inch is hard to fit on an OE setup and that gets more difficult if you gain camber at the hub. 17x8.5's are rare and 17x8 isn't really a large increase over the stock 7.5's so I might as well hunt down another set of stock wheels and slap sticky 215's on those in that case. It is hard to justify $1000 in wheels for only another .5 inch when I could hunt down stock wheels for around $500.
The main goal suspension wise is track/street alignment. I don't really want to hop off the PP setup yet. Camber bolts alone aren't enough. Raceseng plates are the goal but buying plates for the OE coilover and then deciding I want V3's or Tarmac2's is an unnecessary re-fitting cost attributed simply to indecision and poor planning...
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How much are 245's worth compared to 215's? Enough to deal with the headache of squeezing a 9 inch wheel in an OE setup?
With regard to camber. I'd like to save the money on plates and go with bolts but that alone won't get me enough camber. Does slotting the OE strut and adding camber bolts to the top hole sound as crazy as I'm afraid it does? If I mirrored the slots from something like the T2's what ballpark would that get me to? Looking for -2 to -2.5.
If the rear turns out to be heavily mismatched or too low then I will spring for SPL's and just get that problem solved without too much thought.
May eventually do subframe and transmission/diff bushings but I feel like I will "forget" to do these if I don't end up with a personal 2 post lift.