Quote:
Originally Posted by runfrodorun
No that's not the issue; you can tell the clutch is adjusted right by coming to a complete stop, pushing the clutch to the floor and putting it in first gear. You feel the primary move to set the gear. Then what you can do is put it back in neutral and then put it back in first without ever releasing the clutch. If it glides in no questions asked, your clutch is adjusted fine. It would have moved again and need to be notchy if the clutch was adjusted wrong.
Also, FWIW whoever asked no my car is bone stock except for MPSS tires, if you can even call that a modification. I like it exactly as it is.
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Getting back to this. I honestly think it's the clutch. Your test is valid for full disengagement but the distance after full disengagement really does count. The thin little air gap or the tiniest bit of contact will cause the input shaft to windmill, especially at higher engine speed. The ratio of pedal-to-bearing throw is ridiculously high, especially for such a small engine. For the stock system, what may feel like reasonable disengagement is actually marginal.
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Tcoat will attest to my clutch setup. I have my pedal lowered but I also have a corresponding mod to increase the throw at the clutch fork. The two changes cancel each other out to maintain effective disengagement.
When your clutch pedal is fully released, where does it sit relative to the brake pedal? If clutch and brake pedals are about even, the PO lowered it in vain attempt to gain some feel.
Also, in my sig is a a link to the manuals graciously served by a fellow owner. In there are instructions to adjust the clutch pedal to factory spec. Try that before you wear out your new transmission.