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Double check everything and mark nuts and bolts after tighten them. It would be better using a torque wrench of course.
Ideally you should lose literally everything, all the arms on both front and rear and then re-tight them under the new static ride height.
If you have adjustable endlinks connect them at the end and set the adjustment to find the “no preload” position, you can easily guess the correct position by turning the body of the link by hand and find when it moves super freely.
Do a little break in and double check ride height and torque after a week of driving, it’s not unusual to find some changes, especially using soft springs, adjust if needed and then perform the final alignment.
Personally I’d keep those dampers in between -10 and -20mm from stock ride height, with 5/10mm of rake.
From my experience loctite is not needed, as long as you tight the bolts/nuts correctly but you can use it, maybe not the strongest one. Think about loctite as it was Wasabi sauce, a smidge is fine, not too much.
Have fun and check your brake pads + brake lines.
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