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I wanted to start another thread to quantify peoples break in methods vs hp reading. Granted there will be discrepancies due to temp, humidity, elevation, and type of dyno but if we can kind of gauge each others readings based on the data provided I think that is doable.
Here is how I broke mine in. I drove the first 800 km fairly easy as per the manual but to get around the no constant rpm while highway driving I would change the gears to lower ones and did that all the time while cruising (One thing though don't be afraid to go to 5k or so rpm while doing this but I stress that a properly warmed up engine is more crucial to engine life and performance, than just making sure you stay below 4k rpm). Once I got to 800km I started to accelerate harder to say 6k, or so than let engine wind down to 2k than wind her back up hard, usually in 3rd or 4th but 3rd is good to keep speed limits within range, second I find is too short. But let her wind down on her own as this will create a stronger vacuum within the cylinder and help 'seat' the rings in the opposite direction, as well as allows the cylinder to clean itself out. I kept incrementing the rpm until redline which finally was reached around 1600km (1000 mi). No problems. Changed the oil at 1800 km and no issues since now at 27000 km.. Even accelerating hard to 4k is good for the engine but again make sure it is nice and warmed up! you will notice as it breaks in, the engine will start providing more engine brake action, especially at higher revs when decelerating. Trust me it works. As I think my dyno sheet proves, seems about 9-10 hp higher than other using the same type of dyno as displayed from another forum.
Anyways, heres the data.
Type of Dyno: Dynojet
Elevation: ~400 ft
Ambient Temp: 71 F
Fuel: 94 Octane
Transmission: MT
Miles on car: 25400
Mods: Stock, new air filter, GC 0w-30, fresh trans oil, and diff.
WHP: 172
WTQ: 143
P.S. not sure how to post pics.....like my dyno sheet.
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