Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB - DIY - Stainless Steel Lines - Speed Bleeders

- DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Guides (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=43)

- - DIY - Stainless Steel Lines - Speed Bleeders - Fluid Bleed/Flush (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20311)

DIY - Stainless Steel Lines - Speed Bleeders - Fluid Bleed/Flush

Back again. This time we are covering:

+Stoptech Stainless Steel Brake Line Kit (Thanks Jeremy/Yo @FT-86 SpeedFactory)
+Motul RBF 600 (Thanks Adam @No Limit Motorsport)
+Speed Bleeders

Thanks @cobrabyte for helping me install this and being the hand model. Lol for shameless @Racecomp Engineering displays in all my photos

I'll break it out into Rear, Front, then Flush

Overall feedback
+The StopTech lines do not give or flex during brake actuation. The OEM lines are very flexible (4000mi). This should improve brake response times, since you don't have to exert energy to overcome the flex. I do notice the brakes bite sooner.
+The StopTech rear lines do not have the L bend at the caliper connection like the OEM lines. It still fits and works great but not 100% like OEM.
+I have not driven the car hard enough to see the benefit of the high temp fluid.
+I only used 1L of fluid to do the line change and flush. I had 3L on hand just in case.
+Speed bleeder valves work like a champ. At first they seemed gimmicky, but they do what they say. @cobrabyte and I are now believers. Crack open the bleeder and just pump the brakes. Each pump pushes a spring loaded ball bearing out of the way to let fluid out. Then closes on the pedal return preventing air from coming in. You don't need two people anymore or special vacuums to bleed or flush brakes. I might bleed my brakes on each oil change. I hate air in my lines.
+The last bit of flex in the braking system is in the master cylinder. Please hurry @GrimmSpeed. I want your brace
+I strongly urge you to have more fluid than you need and have all the tools ready especially if you are doing this alone and this is your only vehicle

If you are not using speed bleeders, ignore all the references to them. I only cover the traditional and speed bleeder methods of bleeding and flushing fluid.

You'll need to raise the car. A lift makes this 100x easier, but if you use stands, please lift the entire car onto stands to keep it level. Refer to @GrimmSpeed DIY here http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10111

As always I am not responsible for damage done to your vehicle. Be safe

Brake Flush

There are many ways to do the flush. There are probably a thousand guides and videos to do this. If you need more clarification, please search. I am not responsible for any damage done to you or you vehicle. Please remember to keep brake fluid off your paint.

It is my preference to do things without having to buy tools I'll use once or twice so I will describe how to flush your fluid...

+ The traditional method (2 player coop)
+ Speed Bleeder method (single player)

Keep in mind a flush is like doing a bleed x100 (described above). The bleed is just to get air out of the lines, so you'll end up replacing a little bit of fluid. The point of the flush is to replace all of the fluids.

Tools
+ 10mm box wrench (for OEM) -or- 11mm box wrench (for speed bleeder)
+ clear hose
+ water bottle for catch bottle
+ rags
+ gloves
+ jacks + stands
+ Brake Fluid. I think 1L is enough, but have more than you think you need. I had 3L just in case.

Setup
1) You'll need to raise the car. A lift makes this 100x easier, but if you use stands, please lift the entire car onto stands to keep it level. Refer to @GrimmSpeed DIY here http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10111
2) The order you need to flush the fluid out of the system is dictated by distance from the wheel to the master cylinder. Go from furthest to closest.

In a left hand drive vehicle this will be rear right, rear left, front right, front left.
In a right hand drive vehicle this will be rear left, rear right, front left, front right.

I am in the US, so I'll start with the rear right.

3) Open the hood and open the brake reservoir cap. place the cap back on but don't twist it shut.
4) Find the bleeder valve. Remove the dust cover. Place the box wrench on the bleeder valve. Attach the hose to the bleeder, then insert the other end of the hose into your catch bottle. For the rear, the setup looks like this.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8192/8...e264c48c_c.jpg
20121019-Flush_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-19 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Didn't get a picture of the front, but this will show you where the bleeder valve is (black nub). It will be on top of the caliper facing the front.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8468/8...6c4f2645_c.jpg
20121019-Flush_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-09 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Speed Bleeder Method (Single Player)
1) Loosen/Open the valve by 1/4 or 1/2 turn.
2) Hop in the car. Pump the brakes slowly. Like the traditional method, you will feel the fluid being pushed out of the system. Press down like halfway and let all the way up. Just keep pumping. Do not bottom out the pedal (push it all the way down). That may cause a rupture in your brake master cylinder.
3) Every ten or so pumps, get out of the car, and check the reservoir fluid level. If its gets to the low marking, just refill with new fluid. Do not let fluid completely drain out of the reservoir, if this happens you have to start over.
4) Also check the fluid in the hose. When you can clearly see a change in color, this tells you new fluid has reached the caliper. On a new car this may be hard to detect.
5) When new fluid has been pushed out to the wheel, close the valve and remove the hose. Move on to the next wheel. Repeat until finished.

Speed bleeders have a spring loaded ball bearing that opens and closes when you press and release the brake respectively. This prevents air from reentering the caliper when you let go of the brake pedal.

Traditional Method (Two Player)
1) Player 1 will Loosen/Open the valve by 1/4 or 1/2 turn. Tell player 2 to pump.
2) Player 2 will be in the car actuating the brakes. Pump the brakes three times, on the third time hold. Tell Player 1 to close. Like the method above, do not bottom out the brake pedal or you'll have a bad day.
3) Player 1 will close the valve while Player 2 holds. After it is closed, tell Player 2 to let go.
4) Now repeat this procedure until clean fluid can be seen in the hose. This may be hard to see in a new car. Please monitor your fluid levels in the reservoir. Move on to the next wheel.

The only thing keeping you from doing the traditional method by yourself is that pedal hold. If you don't close the valve during the hold, then you'll just let air into the system when you go to check your fluid levels and when you finish.

Not to discourage others but this has to be the greatest, most complete write up I've ever seen. The community thanks you.

the pictures really help thanks for the great write up

Nice write-up. Definitely in my car's future.

Very very well done! And nice springs. ;)

- Andrew

This is one of the best write ups with the clearest pictures I have ever seen. It took a lot of work to do that for us. Thank you!!! :thumbup:

Even though these pics slow the process down a little, they're a huge help to the community. I wish more DIYers took the time to snap some pics. Oh, and those speed-bleeders are BOSS. They sounded gimmicky but they are totally as-advertised.

Fantastic thread.
A great addition to the DIY KB

Bang on! Awesome write up! Will definitely be using it this winter.

Damn!! Another good DIY write up by @F1point4!!! Your photos and instructions are clear and concise!!
This came just in time too! Gotta change my fluids over to Motul 5.1 next week.