Oil/Water Laminova
 

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Mocal laminar flow oil/water cooler system-- I installed the cooler and so far it seems to be working great. (More later) This isn't a complete DIY because the work is very simple-- Drain coolant, splice cooler into hose, attach sandwich plate & spacer, hook up oil lines, and add coolant back in. But, I have included info which will help you do the install if you're interested.

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FITTING- I spliced the unit into the cool water hose out of the radiator (on the driver's side) and used an oil sandwich plate to feed the oil down to the cooler. It was a VERY tight fit with the medium size Mocal cooler (7" plus the length of the water fittings), and what's left of the original hose now only serves to link the cooler to the engine and the radiator-- acting more like couplers than anything else. The fit overall is nearly perfect, but it took me a while to get it just right. The trick was to cut the hose to allow for a short 90-degree link to the engine and a very, very short piece of hose with a 45-degree angle out of the radiator. I ordered the cooler with 1.5" slip-on water fittings and AN10 oil line fittings.

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TESTING- I had noticed oil temps over 230-degrees before installation when running the car hard. In addition, on a 80-degree day I had temps of 218 while on the interstate. While I have not been to an auto-x since install, I've tried to simulate one and did repeated hard pulls in first and second gear, several high RPM runs and the oil temp never went over 212f. For interstate driving on a 90-degree day the car didn't go over 208! Even better, the oil temp seems to come down much faster than before once you stopped running the car hard. Within one mile of driving after a hard pull it went from 212 to 204f.

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I saved anywhere from $100 to $150 over the installation of most of the oil/air coolers designed for the car, still have plenty of room for an intercooler if I ever go FI, and may well have a superior setup for auto-x and DD as I don't have to worry about the oil never being too cool or too hot.

Any logging of the water temp or radiator fan duty? Still using a stock radiator?

I've not logged the water temp, but I checked it quite frequently during initial testing and look at it often now. It's never gone over 197-degrees...and I'm on the stock radiator.

I'd never thought about logging fan duty...and have only 'listened' for it...which isn't remotely scientific. So, how would I check for fan duty?

Couldn't tell ya :P I'm guessing you're using Torque to log oil temps?

I've used Torque for this, but I usually use the P3 gauge I have that gives me oil and water temps.

Very interesting solution. subbed. I would like to see how this holds up with an FI kit where you have to tap into the oil supply anyway.

I'm just hoping that I can get the oil above 212 for a bit every once and a while to boil off any water that accumulates in the oil.

Any thoughts as to how long you need the oil to be hot enough to get rid of any water and how often you want that to happen?

Subbed...I like this set-up.

@mtimney, part numbers on the cooler? and where did you order? I love this setup, though might want to try a shorter body if they have one.

EDIT: found them on raceparts.. which one did you use the medium (7.5" long) or large (13" long)?

What sadwich plate did you use? You don't need a thermostatic one with a setup like this and it will actually help the oil get up to temp quicker from cold start without one....

Sub'd

Used the medium, 7" cooler, 1.5" slip-on water and AN10 fittings for the oil. Get three 90-degree fittings and one 45-degree fitting. The 45 fitting will fit up top closest to the air intake. A 90-degree fitting there won't fit. (I went with two 45-degree fittings up top, but one 90-degree fitting would probably look and fit better.) You will need no more than 3' of oil line. I could have cut mine down more...as you can see in the pictures.

I don't think the small cooler will have enough cooling to make it worth the effort, although it might do the job reasonably well for DD.

I know the larger cooler absolutely will NOT fit where I put this one. The medium barely fits. So.... beware when you buy. I make no guarantees.

Any oil sandwich plate will do. You do NOT need a thermostatic one. You will, however, need to get a sandwich plate adapter to fit under the cooler plate to get it high enough.

I bought a super cheap sandwich plate for adding sensors, then plugged the sensor holes and ground it down around the edges enough so it would fit into the oil-overflow well that's under the filter. (You could also buy a spacer, gaskets, and spacer bolt from Perrin about $80.)

I was planning to do the same but with a thermostat sandwich plate. I was thinking a 220 high temp t-stat would keep the oil at optimum temps... I was also going to upgrade the radiator at the same time which I think you may want to consider at some point.

I looked around for a while yesterday for a plate and spacer but could not find anything but the mocal thermostatic one. I don't want to run a thermostat because a lot of my DD trips are bairly long enough for the oil to get up to 100*c and i want this setup to help heat the oil quicker. I guess I could remove the thermostat in mocal unit, but I would like to keep the cost down and have bungs for pressure and temp.

As I said, you can use another sandwich plate as a spacer. It's not elegant, but it's cheap and it works.