Front sway bar to chassis clearance?
Just finished the install and won't be able to drive it for a day or two, but wanted to solicit some feedback from others who've done this in the meantime.
Setup: ST XTA coilovers lowered about 1" from stock Perrin 22mm front sway bar Whiteline KLC180-195 end links (adjusted to about 1.25" shorter than stock, which is as long as I can make them while still being within Whiteline spec) Pics show car on jack stands at full droop. Blue tape is for me to see if it have any contact when I am able to drive the car. The area that gives some concern is the second pic when the suspension is at ride height. I realize it will move in an arc so that impacts clearance, but when fully compressed it looks like clearance will be tight. Any feedback from those who've been down this road before? Thank you!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d2c1ed097d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c56dd7e0fd.jpg Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk |
Ride height and full droop rough measurements in pics below.
[IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190717/2d***d2460d62aa3e93d3330360938c4.jpg[/IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...976c266df7.jpg Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk |
And here is the clearance between sway bar and lower control arm at full droop - about 1".
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fa3e8c4c16.jpg Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk |
The swaybar should move with the lower control arm since they're all attached to the wheels, there have been some instances of contact but you should be able to shorten the endlinks to clear that.
I don't think I've seen anyone have issues with chassis contact, usually the bar swings out far enough that the clearance isn't that close at that point but the blue tape is a good idea. |
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Chuckable,
How is the clearance at the end link lengths you measured? I have the same shock bodies, front bar, and end links. Visually, I set mine up like you did, but I didn't take measurements. My setup was fine for the first 1,000 miles and two autocrosses, but started contacting the body, right where you marked it with tape. Thanks! |
if you're worried about clearance, why not just put one wheel on the ground and another on a large block or anything that will lift one wheel 12+ inches in the air?
it's extreme loading of the suspension but it will let you know exactly what to expect for clearance. no need to guess... |
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Really sorry for the delay; I just saw this. In spirited street driving I noticed just the tiniest bit of contact, like so small you almost wouldn’t even notice. So, I adjusted the end link for a bit more clearance but it’s not safe to go any further with these end links. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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That’s a good thought, but there’s no way I can fully compress one side as under the same conditions like taking a really hard corner at an autocross or track day. I just can’t simulate that travel unless I remove the strut assembly as a whole which is more work than I want to do at this point. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
@autoxtrackdrift, did you get the issue resolved? I’m thinking that this setup needs a slightly longer endlink, but if you’ve found another solution I’d love to hear it!
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Update:
After some research, am now trying a Whiteline KLC180-215 which appears to have gained about 1/2” in length, and should be enough to avoid sway bar to chassis contact. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...99c1d5fe60.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Sorry, I'm not consistently on this forum either. I never resolved it - I actually just removed the front sway bar, and have been driving without it because I haven't had time to fool with it. How are the 180-215 endlinks working out? How many miles do you have on them so far? Thanks!
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