-3 degrees camber in the front on stock suspension
 

Hey everyone,

I'd like to set up -3 degrees camber in the front, can this be achieved with Pedders top hats and camber bolts?
Which camber bolts do I need, just the bottom ones or both?

Will there be any rubbing against the spring perches with such camber on the stock struts?

Thank you.

I don't think you can get -3 without lowering. I have Pedders and both top and bottom camber bolts together with RCE Yellows and I could get around -3.2 but I dialed it back to -3. Without the Yellows I think it would be about -2.6 or so.
With both top and bottom camber bolts I was really close to the spring perches with stock size tires, maybe 3-4 mm. I didn't actually get any rubbing, but I since added 15 mm spacers to also easily clear wider tires (225/45R17).

The camber curve is minimal on the front McPherson strut design.

I got -2.2 with Pedders and lower cam bolts. If I moved the lower shank bolt to the top I’m confident -3 would achieved.

Reeally close to the spring perch though. 5mm space will take care of that.


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Yep, I'm planning to use at least 20mm spacers.


So if I replace top bolt with say SPC 14mm camber bolt and leave the bottom one stock, combined with Pedders hats it should be around -3 degrees?

I agree in theory, but in practice there is. I don't have the exact numbers, but the 20mm drop from the Yellows was quite significant for camber, I think around 0.5-0.6.

No, you'd need camber bolts on the bottom as well. The top hole is 16mm, the bottom hole is 14mm. The stock top bolt has a 14mm thread and 16mm shoulder. Moving the bottom bolt to the top hole will be the same as a cammed camber bolt, just without the ease of adjustment. For the bottom hole you have to go aftermarket camber bolt (or potentially a smaller diameter bolt).
I found that the bottom hole gave more camber than the top hole. YMMV.

Ah, so I'll need SPC bolts for the bottom and move the stock bottom ones to the top?

Should be good for 3° front as mentioned. I have basically same setup as Ohio enthusiast. Bilstein B6 dampers which have same sized holes as OEM struts.

• Pedders top mounts
• SPC lower camber bolt
• Crash bolt upper(take OEM lower bolt and swap it up top)

If you are doing it DIY you can max it out your self before taking it for alignment. Alignment shop only adjusted toe slightly but otherwise I had -3.1° with how I set it up on stands.

Yes, that's the route most people take.
I started from camber bolts in the top hole and then added bottom hole camber bolts. Cammed camber bolts like SPC make it easier to adjust and/or maximize camber, and they're cheap enough to get two sets.

Got it, thank you!

Something that help me a lot in the installation was doing the following:

So, the idea is with all the new components already in place but still loose, drop a little the car in a piece of wood that should we offset towards the outside of the wheel.
Doing so, you will maximize the camber. Then, tighter all bolts (in that position, with the piece of wood helping the camber).
Lift the car, remove wheel and now torque to spec.

If you are lucky both side with have similar camber. I manage negatives 3.2 and 3.1, with pedders+ crash bolts(both)

Later go to the alignment shop to check camber and they will finish with toe alignment.

Hope I was clear enough.

Just a concrete data point: I got -2.4º/-2.7º with SPC 81305 and Pedders top hats the other day.

This is nearly identical to my result. 2.5 left and 2.75 right.