Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB

Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/index.php)
-   Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=59)
-   -   Brake duct backing plates - which ones? (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91907)

dstrout 07-20-2015 12:59 PM
Brake duct backing plates - which ones?
 
So I managed to get my brakes good and mushy this past weekend. It seems four 20-min track sessions in 95 deg will do that, even with RBF-600 and XP8's. So, brake ducts and an oil cooler are next on the list.

I am going to go with the APR inlets because I like my DRLs. The question is, whose backing plates? There are plates from APR, Project Mu, Touge Factory, Dremel, and probably others.

Does anybody have a recommendation for one over the other? I lean to TF, mostly because they are metal, but I am open to education and the voice of experience.

TIA!

crazyfrenchbiker 07-20-2015 02:54 PM
I absolutely love the APR backing plates. Light, incredibly solid and handle heat great.

Andreas83 07-20-2015 02:59 PM
TF for sure.
They lead the air to the center of the disc so it can pass out trough the cooling veins.

wparsons 07-21-2015 10:42 AM
^^ What he said. The others just blow air on the back of the disc, not into the center so it spreads through the vanes.

CSG Mike 07-21-2015 12:55 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by dstrout (Post 2327528)
So I managed to get my brakes good and mushy this past weekend. It seems four 20-min track sessions in 95 deg will do that, even with RBF-600 and XP8's. So, brake ducts and an oil cooler are next on the list.

I am going to go with the APR inlets because I like my DRLs. The question is, whose backing plates? There are plates from APR, Project Mu, Touge Factory, Dremel, and probably others.

Does anybody have a recommendation for one over the other? I lean to TF, mostly because they are metal, but I am open to education and the voice of experience.

TIA!
The easier solution is to upgrade your fluid to Torque RT700.

JDM4E 07-21-2015 01:35 PM
I have the same question. Which ones? Why has TF's that "missing" piece? It seems that a lot of air must "escape" because of that.

I liked the project Mju because they keep the brake shield, but it seems the air is routed to the edge of the disc which seems wrong too.

Sleepless 07-21-2015 02:47 PM
Definitely try RT700 fluid first and possibly XP12s. I had those and the TF brake cooling setup and it was very good. Now have it with the StopTech kit and still on XP12s.

dstrout 07-21-2015 03:32 PM
Boo! In looking up the XP12s, I just found this on the web:

Quote:
READ THIS!

Carbotech brakes require their own, uncontaminated transfer layer made by Carbotech pads. If this is not done, you will not experience the full potential of the ceramic-kevlar compound.

You will need to do one of the following:

Resurface your old rotors
Completely remove the old transfer layer with a steel wire brush/flapper disc on a drill/grinder
New rotors
I completely failed to do that. I just put them on running against the stock rotors (with 20K miles on the stock pads). I did run them for about 2 weeks on the street, where I get plenty of 70-to-20 decelerations. Could not being on fresh rotors be part of the problem I ran into?

And more broadly, does that hold any time you switch compounds? I put my stock pads back on last night, and noticed the brakes felt very weak for the first few miles. They felt almost like there was grease on the rotors. By the end of todays commute they were back to feeling like "normal" brakes.

Mad_Mike 07-21-2015 07:28 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by dstrout (Post 2329325)
Boo! In looking up the XP12s, I just found this on the web:



I completely failed to do that. I just put them on running against the stock rotors (with 20K miles on the stock pads). I did run them for about 2 weeks on the street, where I get plenty of 70-to-20 decelerations. Could not being on fresh rotors be part of the problem I ran into?

And more broadly, does that hold any time you switch compounds? I put my stock pads back on last night, and noticed the brakes felt very weak for the first few miles. They felt almost like there was grease on the rotors. By the end of todays commute they were back to feeling like "normal" brakes.
I went from 30k miles on stock pads and rotors to xp10s with no issue.

Sleepless 07-22-2015 01:23 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad_Mike (Post 2329637)
I went from 30k miles on stock pads and rotors to xp10s with no issue.
Yeah, I've not had any issues with switching between street/stock pads and Carbotech tack pads.

lamawithonel 07-22-2015 09:26 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by dstrout (Post 2329325)
Boo! In looking up the XP12s, I just found this on the web:



I completely failed to do that. I just put them on running against the stock rotors (with 20K miles on the stock pads). I did run them for about 2 weeks on the street, where I get plenty of 70-to-20 decelerations. Could not being on fresh rotors be part of the problem I ran into?

And more broadly, does that hold any time you switch compounds? I put my stock pads back on last night, and noticed the brakes felt very weak for the first few miles. They felt almost like there was grease on the rotors. By the end of todays commute they were back to feeling like "normal" brakes.
You need to bed them in.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-procedures/

OkieSnuffBox 07-23-2015 12:27 PM
With Carbotechs, don't just do a few 70-20 stops. KEEP DOING it until the pedal gets soft and the brakes stink, then try not to use them getting home/pits/whatever, until they cool off.

BAM! Carbotechs are bedded.

dstrout 07-23-2015 02:07 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox (Post 2332108)
With Carbotechs, don't just do a few 70-20 stops. KEEP DOING it until the pedal gets soft and the brakes stink, then try not to use them getting home/pits/whatever, until they cool off.

BAM! Carbotechs are bedded.
Heh - tough to do on a DD. But understood.

OkieSnuffBox 07-23-2015 05:20 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by dstrout (Post 2332313)
Heh - tough to do on a DD. But understood.
Just go find an old industrial park after hours, or a low traffic piece of road somewhere.


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:32 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.


Garage vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.