Rev11?? i feel so behind.

255F oil temp and 210 water temp. That doesn't suggest to me that your oil cooling system isn't adequate, it suggests that your water cooling setup isn't (aka: how effectively air flows through it).

240F-260F for oil is a sweet spot IMHO. Just not for 0w-20, unless your oil pressure is still at 70psi at that temp. I'm pretty sure your oil pressure was lower than you may have wanted it. Just run 30 or even 40wt to bump pressure at those temps (depending on oil pressure at that temp).

But for water temp, trying to cut down on oil temp to address water temp is really taking the indirect route IMHO, especially if you're oil temps are just fine. Tackle the water temp directly.

A) increase shrouding so the air cannot flow around the radiator and is forced through it.

B) wire a switch such that the fans are running the whole time

C) Remove A/C which will reduce the impedance of the air trying to get to your radiator.

D) Install a larger radiator/more efficient radiator.

For a street car, I'd probably look at a combination of A and D first.

Here's why I would also recommend option B:

I assume you have an A/C condenser AND an intercooler in front of your radiator. Intercooler--gap-->A/C Condenser--gap-->Radiator.

What's important to note is that there is a gap of air between each of these and your radiator. Because not all 3 things sit flush with each other (touching), as the air flows through one, it creates a large amount of turbulence in that gap and when the air meets this turbulence it looks to follow the path of the least resistance. This is is where shrouding comes into play. By removing any other path for the air to flow it's forced to overcome the turbulence and then more of it finally flows through your radiator (which is the last thing in the chain to see the air). The other thing is leaving those fans running. By having the fans on the whole time, they create a low pressure on the back side of the radiator and this will make it easier for the air flowing past your a/c and intercooler to make it into the radiator by cutting down on the turbulence that results in those gaps, well at least on the gap between the a/c condenser and the radiator.

Before you go spending more money... fab up some shrouding and keep those fans running, you'll be amazed at the difference it makes.


Last but not least, if your oil cooler is also mixed up on all this, then the shrouding will improve it's functionality as well.

The trans fluid is the only red flag thus far. I will be posting in the fluids forum to get others to sent out samples for.comparisions.

As far as the videos there are two more being released soon, one for suspension and the other from the FA20club interviews with Toni and owners.

I replied after reading the thread but I finally watched the video. I like the presentation and editing. Looks like you're either shooting for a future in auto journalism or are just pretty natural at it. Good work nonetheless.

I'm gonna stay tuned about the trans temp. In the Honda world when we've stepped up to 9k rpm engines we've noticed that some of the H and B series transmissions would see 300+ degree tranny oil temps and that is something that needs to be addressed on any car that's going to be beaten on for more than 30 minutes. A fellow racer is addressing this very issue and is installing a manual transmission oil cooler setup for a highly strung B-series enduro race car.

Since you're in the habit of sending oil to the lab, I'd be very curious if you have any desire to run something besides Pentosin in your tranny for the type of use your car sees?

Thanks,.I already have larger radiator. The shroud makes sense for sure but dont know if you read it but having Perrin give me a track only tune to set fans on always or at 200f would be easy and simple without changing anything to test.

As far as heat IMO the oil is overcooled on the street right now. The issue is the longer track sessions. This is the difficulty in building a balanced street and track car. Track cars are much easier to do.

Not debating your oil temp statements but talking to our race shop and perrin. They all set said optimal track oil temps are 230F. I believe even Robi runs for that target ad well but he also runs e85 to keep his Innovate kit from knocking the motor to death.

Thats good info I was actually worried about trans temps, did the S2000.have similar issues like you mentioned?

Truthully I only run Pentosin because it was the only fluid that worked in the winter without crunching up my second gear. Now.though for heat may not be effective.

Truthfully the car will never run longer than 25 min sessionz again so its one of those finding the upper limit things.

Thanks for the kind comments about the video as well.

awesome review and videos. Thanks again for all your hard work.

I don't know on the S2000 only B and H series FWD race cars. Partly due to the layout in the engine bay, but partly also due to the fact that the differential is inside a FWD transmission. With a RWD the diff is in the back the trans doesn't see as much heat as it's FWD counterparts.

I would want to know definitively what temps you're seeing before anything gets recommended.

I did read that but I think a manual switch might be good and to just leave the fans on the whole time might be better then waiting until the water temp has reached 200F for track purposes. That's just internet brainstorming at this point. Remember that they are creating that low pressure, allowing the turbulence in front of the radiator to be reduces and thus more air to flow. I'd rather be cookin' around the track with 180F water temp instead.

Maybe an oil-cooler with a thermostat?

I will concede the fact that oil temp, like any temp when FI in involved, it's wise to keep things cool.

After seeing all the video's, and they are great, 5-7K for 50hp is not worth doing!

You make great informative videos but I get the feeling you wanted the car to perform like a Porsche and were unhappy to realize its not. Some of us actually like this platform and your negative view of it rubs me the wrong way.

I think you just need more power.

:burnrubber:

You should up the boost install a header and get a more aggressive tune and post your findings :D. Or do a review of the 300whp car you mentioned. That would be a great contrast to the more calm "street oriented" review. I think the most important thing here is a good tuner and knowledge of supporting mods (injectors, clutch, etc.) which also unfortunately increases cost and potential headache. But I think personally it would be more worth it to me to go through that headache.

After seeing this Vortech is capable of 300-350+ on e85 and up to 300 on 93 that seems very promising for potential. Personally, 240*bhp* would leave me very unsatisfied in a F/I build.

At least, if I end up going for F/I that's what I'll be aiming for

The way I have it setup is about 55 HP over stock.
Up from 155HP at the wheels to 212HP.

With the more aggressive map I can make 240HP which is 85HP more.

For track you don't want to be running high timing advance it's too risky, but for street you could run with 85HP extra all day.

I just was out doing video at a dyno day with FA20club and Nelsmar's Vortech kit made 307HP with E85 or 150HP more than stock That's basically the same setup as mine for 6k.

How do you feel about that?

Isn't he running injectors at least, at 300whp level?

The way I really feel is that it's a budget more practical Lotus Elise.

I enjoy driving it way more than the Exige I had. But the thing is I don't get wound up about these cars. It has excellent potential. Otherwise I would not be wasting my time doing all of this.