Motul 8100 Eco Lite vs Motul 300V vs Eneos Sustina
 

Hello all,

I've been researching oils for a few hours now and I keep finding lots of conflicting/controversial answers. I am looking for an oil that will be suitable for hot California weather on a BRZ that is daily driven mostly on the freeway with the capability of being tracked a few times a year and driven hard on the backroads and canyons. I tried reading on bitog but there is a lot of technical jargon that I am still trying to learn.

Out of these three oils, which do you think would be the best for my specific application? 300V seems to be highly reviewed but it looks as though its not recommended for daily driven vehicles (controversial). Feel free to make other recommendations as well and why you would recommend that specific oil.

Since we're doing expensive oils I'm going to throw Cerma out there as a recommendation. Feel free to look into it. Too much to type out.

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I have read in a previous thread that Amsoil 0W-20 has properties that make it similar to a 0W-30, which is good for extreme hot weather, but at the same time still considered as 0W-20 (which the manual specifies using). I am not sure on the specifics, but that was how I interpreted it.

If you are only occasionally tracking your car, put the good stuff in (Motul) for track days only. Most HPDE weekends I see 2 hours+ of track time and consider that enough to warrant fresh oil. Considering a HPDE weekend sets me back $300, plus hotels, brake pads and tires, it seems like a reasonable expense.

My daily oil is OW20 Liqui Moly and then I run a Motul 0W20 for track days. The Liqui Moly holds up well to autocross and I have yet to see any oil consumption issues. I took the same approach with my 2015 WRX and 1997 Acura Integra, which had over 220k miles on the original bottom end with over 300 20-minute track sessions.

Honestly?

Any of the oils you are looking to run will be perfectly fine for your needs.

You need to look into a basic oil cooler and/or one with a thermostat/thermostatic control if you want to track the car on a consistent basis.

The last thing you need is to nitpick the oil properties based on what you've read. All of them will be fine for what you want to do, but all of them will suck if you consistently overheat the oil at the track.

Yea there's probably some misinformation going around because I read a few posts that said even with an oil cooler, 8100 eco lite 0w20 is bad for the track.

I bought tons of 8100 eco lite 0w20, so if that will be a good oil I'm in luck.

Just ask yourself a simple (series of) question(s):

Can you, as a driver, tell the difference between different types of 0W-20 oil? Why 0W-20 over other weights? Have you sampled all of them on the same engine? Do you push your car hard enough to test the limits of oil?

If you say no to any of the questions or have doubts, don't overthink the oil choice. It's like saying "my car will blow up by going to Arco", when in actuality people will probably benefit from going to cheaper gas stations by virtue of them refreshing the fuel in their holding tanks more often than a slower, pricier gas station.

-alex

Read this post http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77169 this will help.

To add to this conversation I recently asked Motul a similar question regarding the detergent and additive package for a car that will be used for track days, auto X, and spirited street driving. And here is the response directly from Motul (i was interested in the oil for use in a turbo application hence 5w30):

The 300V has enough additives and detergents to protect the engine.
But do keep in mind that it’s design for competition and by no means
A long drain interval oil. Professional racing teams they drain it after
every race. For the type of racing or what I call street to track car! just be
aware to check your oil more frequently .

ADVANTAGES:
The SAE 5W-30 viscosity enables to compensate medium engine oil dilution by unburned fuel. Maximum oil film resistance at very high temperature. Engine wear is reduced.

Friction Modifier: Maximum power output, decrease operating temperature.

Low volatility: Oil consumption is reduced.

High shear stability: Stable oil pressure whatever using conditions.

Seriously? It's a BRZ not a Ferrari. Any good synthetic oil will do fine if not better. Hell even oem brand would do just as fine.

California weather has jack shit to do with anything.

Just to add my oil two cents think if this: do you want to be low on oil and wait for an online delivery or drive to just one specific store that carries your brand of oil?
Or would you like to buy your brand of oil at any store at any place?

Umm.... okay? Not really what I was asking but duly noted

Well, now, Lust, I agree with @Mr.ac (this time .....;)).

For your type of driving, I think you are waaaaay overthinking this oil thing.

Any name brand, full synthetic, 0w20 oil will do just fine.

I recommend Mobil 1. Why? Because you ask for a recommendation ..... ;)

Why Mobil 1? Because it's a name brand, full synthetic oil that comes in 0w20 weight.

There ya go ......:thumbsup:


humfrz

Eneos or royal purple 5w30. Eneos is Japan's #1 oil and is formulated for Subaru engines. Royal purple has one of the highest friction resistances on the market. I would suggest an oil cooler as it will help maintain oil pressure and protection during load on the track and street. As I mentioned brand dose not matter as much as the weight! Make sure it's full synthetic API grade 5 and your good to go. If you care about your engine and want to keep it a long time either 0w-5w just make sure it's 30 weight.

if you use 0W-20 make sure you get good cooling.

Japanese manual recommend you use 30weight oil for all application and 5w-40 for heavy track use & 0w-20 is for fuel economy.


https://www.subaru.jp/afterservice/tnst/pdf_brz/1/6.pdf