How to use the OEM amp Wiring
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Hi all.
Havent seen a thread like this yet so I thought I'd post my findings. This project is far from complete and I havent even decided how I'm going to finish it off. Might go with micro amp and small sub or go all out with 2 full size amps and larger sub. I digress - here is the meat and potatoes of the thread: The oem amp harness uses a standard toyota HU harness (ie Metra 70-1761) however, the wires are far from standard so I took some time, repinned the harness and am now trying to decide how to use it. Pics: The newly repinned harness Attachment 45328 For those that dont know how to remove the pins simply take a large sewing needle and lift the little white plastic tab while pulling out the wire. Fair warning: some of those buggers are snug, I had to use 2 hands on the harness and my teeth to pull the wire out. Attachment 45127 Attachment 45128 Im hoping to maybe use http://www.crutchfield.com/p_020XC14....html?tp=35782 to minimize space. This wiring trick will only amplify the door speakers though. Not the dash or rears. PIN Map: Attachment 45329 Attachment 45330 Wire colours: Red = Battery + (always on) [PIN 1] Black = Ground [PIN 2] White = LF Speaker amplified out (black line means -) [PIN 1 and 5] Grey = RF Speaker amplified out (black line means -) [ PIN 2 and 6] Blue = remote turn on [PIN 8] Green = Left speaker signal input from HU [PIN 3 and 9] Purple = Right Speaker signal in from HU [PIN 4 and 10] |
1 Attachment(s)
*** Fixed first post pin picture, all correct now ***
Also for the skeptics - a little proof that this will fit: Attachment 45129 |
I guess I'm not entirely sure what this accomplishes.
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Do you have any references that you used to determine the correct pins?
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what are you trying to do ?
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Well using that wiring you can attach a micro amp that will push 50w to the door speakers and leave 100w bridged for a sub all using stock wiring.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500KTP4....html?tp=35782 http://www.crutchfield.com/p_020XC14....html?tp=35782 Or if you just want to retain stock speaker wiring you can run a power cable and RCAs while attaching a full size amp. Plus you now have access to high level inputs if you dont want to run RCAs and a remote turn on cable. All without cutting and splicing. I used the BRZ wiring manual found here: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...ht=shop+manual |
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I'm looking to do almost exactly the same thing, but I was under the impression the harness provided everything you need including power and signal. Why couldn't you run a real amp instead of a mini-amp? Nothing major just a small 4ch bridge to 2ch to put some power to the door speakers. Do you know if the signal from the HU (green and purple) pre-out level or high level? |
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So if i wanted an aftermarket amp back there then I'd do Green/Purple into high level inputs on amp and then White/Grey to the powered output of the amp? Then red/black/blue for power & remote? |
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Im getting a used Alpine MRP F240 tomorrow from a friend for $0. That amp will require some beefier wiring though so ill be running a power wire, and prolly RCA's in the process... **EDIT** Just ran the numbers. Amp uses a 15A fuse (label ANP) so a 200 watt amp would be just fine on this circuit. HU uses a separate 7.5A fuse. |
What would happen if you used something like that with the little power wire out of the stock harness? 40w x 4 doesn't seem like all that much...
Makes me wish the battery was in the trunk. |
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Keep in mind the stock amp is probably pushing around 25w RMS with less advanced crossovers (if any). 40w RMS is an appreciable upgrade as far as power goes. Edit** I think the Alpine manual recommends 10 gauge wire which means 10 is more than what is required (they wouldn't low ball it) |
Ok good to know. I'm not willing to run a power wire, but I don't want to melt the stock harness by trying to pull too much power.
Looks like I'm going to need to find something class D, and those mini-amps look like they'd do the trick, 90watts RMS when bridged to 2ch is definitely good enough for what I'm trying to do. |
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