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STX setup sharing thread (2019)
There is an older “STX setup sharing” thread but things definitely change over the years. I thought it would be nice to start a new thread for anyone that would like to share their current STX setup and give feedback on how it’s working for them so people new to the class can see what is working and people contemplating setup changes can find some guidance. When I ran STS there was a new “STS setup” thread every year on Miata.net and it was interesting to see how the setups changed and what people were trying. For reference, there is also a lot of good discussion and development going on in this thread which will undoubtedly remain a good ongoing resource:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...=25779&page=90 Here is the original STX setup thread: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...ht=stx+sharing This is my setup: 2015 BRZ, ~32k miles (usually raced as #68 or 86) Color: Red Suspension - Dampers: KW V3, adjusted pretty soft. Springs: 350F/325R Sway bars: Perrin front on full stiff, Whiteline 16mm set soft Alignment & suspension settings - Ride height: Haven’t measured lately but it’s High. Roughly 5 1/4" at the pinch welds last time I measured. Alignment: -3.5 camber/0 toe front, -2.4/ 0 toe rear Engine & drivetrain - Exhaust: HKS EL header (wrapped), everything else stock. Intake: Perrin CAI and elbow with lots of fancy gold space shuttle wrapping paper. ECU: ECUTEK tune. Whiteline transmission mount insert and shifter bushing. Diff: stock Wheels/Tires, etc - Wheels: 17x9 Enkei RPF-1 45mm offset 10mm spacers and extended ARP lug studs in the front. Tires: BFGoodrich Rival S 1.5 (245/40-17). 27-28 PSI depending on the lot. less than 27 has not worked well with only 3.5 degrees of camber. Brakes: HP+ front and rear. Battery: Braile 11.5 lb. Other: Steering rack bushings, diff and subframe bushings are waiting to be installed, AMSOIL fluids in the engine, transmission and diff. This is the first year racing this car, since my FR-S was totaled on the way home from Bristol last year. Currently the car feels very good at higher speeds generally but as one might expect with the unusual spring selection, it is quite pushy at lower speeds. I will be making adjustments to correct that and get it balanced out before the Finger Lakes Tour. The springs will end up something closer to square or I'll just swap them end for end. As it is, the car has proven itself reasonably competitive already this year, though nobody good enough to show that has driven it. The car took second at the Dixie Tour and had the fastest time in class on day 1 at the Charlotte Tour and the second fastest time on day 2, but with different drivers, so no overall finish worth mentioning. The softer springs provide outstanding grip in high speed sweepers and transitioning is still great. Unfortunately there is no amount of trail braking that is going to get it to rotate at lower speeds at this point, but that will be fixed soon. Edited 4/27/19 to update spring rate/swaybar changes. |
Suspension/Align
ProParts Megans - 6k/7k (350/400) 8-12 clicks from soft front, 18-24 clicks rear From pinch: 5 1/8" front, 4 5/8" rear F: -4.3 camber, 0 toe R: -2.5 camber, 1/16 total toe-in 22mm Perrin on medium SPC arms w/ FRSport delrin inserts Engine Tomei UEL, HPS Tube, Perrin filter, Perrin 2.5" cat-back, custom OFT tune Wheel/Tire/Brake Both 245/40/17 REs and Rivals for whatever surface 17x9 TRM C4, +35 front +40 rear (spacers) Ferodo DS 1.11 front, DS2500 rear, GT3 front ducts Car works fine and can run with upper mid pack easy. Will not beat well setup cars with awesome drivers. Needs a diff, Mann rear bar, good EL header and full exhaust with custom tune to make up the difference. Also could use some more rear rate as it sits. |
This was set-up from 4 years ago but lap time still stands
2013 GT86 auto This set-up was very understeery. Since it was a street car we decided it was safer. On other proper racecars, different shocks and spring rates turned it into another animal. Ohlins 380lbs spring ft and rear 3 clicks hard rear 8 clicks hard front Cusco fender braces Tanabe lower front sub brace Toyota hardend frame bolts Whiteline 22mm front sway (set loose) Whiteline 18mm rear (set medium) Whiteline rear sub bushing (full bushing) CF drive shaft JP auto works A/T vacuum delete 5:1 Final Drive (OEM diff) Airaid intake Delicious FF tune ACE A350 header and front pipe RacerX front LCA's (solid bushings) RacerX rear UCA's RacerX rear LCA's TRD door latches front caynards Perrrin steering rack bushings Hardrace stiff motor mounts Rays 17x8.5 SL's (37et) 20mm spacers rear only Maxxis RC-1 235/40/17 (treadwear 100) AP 5200 Sprint kit (ft only) CL-6 sintered pads (ft and rear) Essex "harness" bar 51.3% cross weight 45% rear weight 5.6 caster LF (I forget, have to check notes) 5.5 caster RF (I forget, have to check notes) 4* camber LF 2.5* camber RF 4* camber LR 2* camber RR 2mm toe out front 0 toe rear 57cm ride height LF (measured from center of hub to fender with driver (78kg) 57cm ride height RF 57.7cm ride height LR 57.5cm ride height RR total weight 1218.6kg with driver (2681lbs) Link to tire temps: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80118 Old video: 50+ cars on track, start at around 2:15 for hot laps [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL7uYz5_3bk&t=277s[/ame] |
This has been my STX setup for a few years now. Planning to finally add camber plates when I get my coilovers rebuilt at the end of this season.
2013 Scion FRS Suspension Dampers: RCE Tarmac 2's (Recommended Settings) Springs: 400F/400R Sway Bars: Strano front, stock rear Rear LCA: Whiteline (stamped steel version) Endlinks: Whiteline adjustable (shorter version) Alignment & Suspension Settings Ride Height: 13.25" hub center to fender Alignment: -2.7 camber, 0 toe front | -2.2 camber, 1/16” toe-in rear Engine & Drivetrain Exhaust: Perrin 2.5" Resonated Header: JDL UEL Intake: Stock box with K&N filter and Perrin tube ECU: OFT Stage 2 Wheels/Tires, etc Wheels: 17x9 Enkei RPF1 35mm offset Tires: Bridgestone RE-71R (245/40-17) Brakes: Winmax W3 Battery: Shorai 5 lb Bushings: Steering Rack, Shifter, Differential, Subframe |
My car just bought in January this year after years of ****ering around with other chassis (yaris, s2000, rx8, 2.5rs coupe and a ND1)
Purpose: Be the ultimate combo of street-able, track-able and STX classing. Able to go from auto-x to the hpde's up north and be driven between the two. So stock seat, add a little more of everything but keep Reliability near max With how I drive, I wanted the car to rotate on all four wheels vs just oversteer with the back. So at the very limit there is some understeer to make it more stable mid corner. I have a messed up driving line and perspective (years of awd driving and rally-schools have sort of improved and worsened my driving philosophy) 2015 Scion FRS -> BRZ tS clone 35.6k Miles, second owner Raced as number #400 Suspension : Shocks: Koni Adjustable Yellows. I have the fronts at 1 3/4 turn hard ( outta 2) Rears at 1.5 turns, and i change rears more if the surface is smoother or rougher) Bumpstops: Stock FRS Springs: Swift Spec-R (4.4 kg front/ 5.3 kg rear) Sway Bars: Whiteline Sway Bar 22mm front Adjustable/ Whiteline 18mm Rear Adjustable (Front set full tight, rear set middle) Endlinks: Whiteline adjustable front and rear ( Buy the vehicle kit from whiteline) Rear LCA: Cuscio V2.0 Adjustable rear, for toe and camber adjustment Front Camber Bolts: Whiteline Strut Tower Tie: STI Flexible Strut tower Extra: Lower Flexible Draw stiffener from 2015 JDM tS (the 2018 usdm ts uses a different set up) Alignment & Suspension Settings Ride Height: 13.25" hub center to fender (About 1.5" lower than stock) Alignment: Front Camber: -2.25 * ( stock top hats whiteline camber bolts only) Rear Camber: -2.0 rear ( cusco rear could dial in 3.25 from what the guy said) Front Total Toe: 1/16 out Rear Total Toe: 1/16 in Front Caster Matched: 8 Degrees (again stock top hats) Engine & Drivetrain Exhaust: OE Headers: OE Axle-back: JD Muffler Delete with Muffler delete cap ( it was cheap..) Intake: Stock box with K&N filter. ECU: OFT Stage 2 W/85 Tune Soon: Crawford intake manifold spacer with Aluminum intake that has been flow matched ( secret sauce from the old wrx days in the 00s) Differential: 17+ Swapped 4.3 stock LSD, Motul 300 Gear oil filled Wheels/Tires, etc Wheels: 18x7.5 Subaru OE tS Rims 35mm offset Tires: Humho V720 (225/40-18) Brake Calipers: OE Brake Pads: Stoptech Brake Rotors: Stoptech Slotted Brake Lines: Stoptech Braided Battery: OE Bushings: OE Interior: Titan Racing shift knob Schroth 3 point ASM DOT legal harness Verus Engineering Throttle spacer Clutch Spring Delete Soon: 949 Racing Steering Wheel spacer Exterior Soon; BRZ tS wing, 2018 Brz bumper, with fog delete, Verus Engineering hood vents Im sure I am forgetting something, once iget the alignment set up Ill post it. Im thinking -2 camber front. -2 rear, slight toe out up front, toe neutral in the rear. and as much caster as we can find. not excessive but itll get stability for streeting driving. |
I'm intrigued by the setups that are way outside of being STX legal (well, @Doozer seems to have posted setup on a track car... not sure if it's actually autocrossed in STX). Does no one care? Is it just not competitive locally so it doesn't matter?
2017 Limited PP BRZ RCE T3's, currently 8k square RaceSeng front cas/cam RaceSeng rear -1" tops. Strano FSB Mann RSB, stiffest setting RacerX rear LCA with STX legal bushing Whiteline swaybar endlinks, F&R Whiteline rear subframe inserts Whiteline diff mount inserts Whiteline steering rack bushings SPC rear toe-arms (probably not legal, also no performance benefit... except when I'm doing alignments where they're infinitely better than the eccentrics.) Ace 350 header, ceramic coated 3" catted/resonated front-pipe Thermal R&D catback Grimmspeed intake EcuTek, Delicious (remote) tuned Kartboy shifter insert Kartboy short-shifter non-PP rear brake calipers AP Sprint front calipers Ferodo DS2500 (for now...) Spiegler stainless lines F&R Grimmspeed hood struts Shorai 5lb battery RacerX catch can RaceSeng Sphereology shift knob Cusco accelerator pedal cover STi lip and side skirts, spats soon as I fix them Off the car at the moment: Grimmspeed front strut tower brace; also have 7k and 9k springs (ran 7f/9r the first year I had the T3's) wheels/tires: 17x9+35 TC105n with 245/40/17 RE71r (3rd season) 17x9+40 949 6ul with 245/40/17 Rival S (also 3rd season) have a test-n-tune + event on a concrete site in 2 weeks, which is the reason I haven't put the 255/40/17 RE71's onto wheels quite yet... Ride height: approx 30mm drop pre corner-balance Front camber: -3.8° Front toe: 0.1° toe out Front caster: max (~6.8°) Rear camber: -2.5° Rear toe: -.07° toe in Car weighs in at around 2800lbs with me in it and a quarter tank of gas, give or take. Toe arms, as noted, are not legal (almost for sure... I forget if that' ever been challenged). There is also no performance benefit I can identify; still regular rubber bushings, slightly larger metal bit... and SO much less headache doing alignments. Were I running anything but locals, I'd go back to stock - but I'd also align with these then swap, to get the RLCA set right and then only have to get the toe arms back to the right place for both toe and camber to be correct. None of my local competitors have cared so far - if someone did, I'd do the switch again. I have a Verus rear diffuser I haven't put back on the '17 (only just found the drill template), but I created a custom mount solution so it's a ~2 minute removal, ~5 minute reinstall - I don't autocross with it on the car. Current challenges: confidence, rain performance (driver a huge part) and top speed is too low. Taller tires will help a tiny bit on the latter, thus the 255 switch. Practice will help with the former... so far it's been ~40° temps and stuff falling from the sky in various stages of existence (not always liquid... in fact, we had to delay an event a couple hours to let ice on course melt...) for the two events we've had, and it looks like for this coming Sunday as well. Crazy me is considering 225 re71's on 8" wheels for rain days... Also a diff if the budget comes around again. |
@cjd That's a really nice setup! I'm especially jealous of that Ace 350 header. Did you find the Mann rear swaybar to make a significant difference? I've considered getting one.
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The '17 has a stiffer (stock) rear bar and I wanted to be changing fewer things when I had to shift everything over to the '17 from the '14, so I got the Mann rear bar - and I'm basically using it where it matches the stock '14 sway, so I haven't explored how it works on softer settings... that's part of what the test-n-tune is for! Also for LFB practice. I'm tempted to switch to the Karcepts front sway, but man is that pricey, and I don't know if it matters right now. I mean, I get it, but... probably diff first. I had money for that this year, then a furnace died and my tax cuts cost me 7% more (income went down, taxes went up) so... maybe next year. Ace was mostly because I couldn't find a replacement Nameless header... that got crushed in the crash. I think the Ace is a little better overall though - definitely doesn't have the dip the Nameless did. And the tune is SO much better than what I used to have. So well balanced for autocross. And the 3" FP was noticeable at the top, just doesn't quite feel like it wheezes, where it did with the stock FP. Confidence + pulling it all together and I could be fast. |
2017 Toyota 86 - #337
Suspension : Whiteline MaxG Coilovers (AST5100 Single Adjustable) 6kg Swift Springs Front/Rear Vorshlag Camber Plates Stock Sway Bars Alignment & Suspension Settings Ride Height: Front | 13.5" hub center to fender Rear | 13.75" hub center to fender Alignment: Front | -3.5* Camber, 0 Toe, 7* Caster Rear | -2.25* Camber, 1/16th Total Toe In Engine & Drivetrain Thermal R&D Catback OpenFlash Performance V3 Header with overpipe Stock Front Pipe OFT OTS Stage 2+ Tune Perrin Oil Cooler Wheels/Tires/Brakes: 17x9, +40, Konig Hypergram or Konig Dekagram Bridgestone RE-71r (245/40/17) AP Racing Spring BBK Porterfield R4-S Pads Front & Rear A few thoughts on set up. These cars seem to like square rates with the stock sway bars. With a bigger front bar it favors a touch more rear spring than front from what I can tell. I like the square rates for autocross but suspect they will be a little twitchy on a high speed track. I generally run lower spring rates than most set ups due to our local lot being incredibly rough but I like the softer set up on the street. For my uses it's plenty fast and regularly one of the fastest STX cars locally. |
Thanks for all the responses so far. It really looks like setups have not changed too terribly much since 2013 when we have the most posts from the older thread.
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I want to post mine up in full detail after I get a set of fresh tires and a few events in them, hopefully being much more competitive than I have been. But here's the quick rundown because I'm in full support of this thread. tldr setup: I'm copying Tony's setup notes above with similar alignment and such based on what Jeff Wong developed in 2017, there probably isn't a better budget autox solution for this car than ProParts right now. ProParts Megans F-6k R-7k Tomei EL header, stock exhaust from the header back (I like quiet) OFT with WayneRom canned tune RPF1s 17x9 +45 with a 5mm spacer on all corners (ARP extended studs and gorilla steel extended lugs) Bridgestone RE71R 245/40/17 Ferodo DS2500 pads on stock calipers and discs Edit forgot some details: Front Swaybar: Whiteline 20mm - full stiff, works well on a warm grippy day, but in cold and damp I'm getting a push which I think softening will help with. Rear Sway: Stock RacerX Rear LCA's with STX legal bushings The technically illegal SPC rear Toe arms (both by letter clarification and percentage of metal) but I really don't see any benefit other than making my life easier DIY alignment changes, If I got to a serious event they'll come off and stock will go back on. I want the Karcepts front bar (in case someone reading this doesn't know about it), but probably won't buy it this year unless I decide to make a run at Nats in this car and I have time to test it. Front camber is at -4.1° and I think I'll be upping it to -4.3° after scrubbing in another set and paying attention to outer edge heat after a run, if you're serious I'd be surprised if you're much less than -4.0° up front on an STX car these days. This is my only car, it gets DD duty since I bought it over six years ago, currently at 78k miles, replaced a few coil packs and replaced the clutch a few weeks ago, it's been great! I've tried a few parts, some I liked, some I didn't, Raceseng Camber Plates and top hats, Mann Rear Bar, Nameless muffled catback, Bilstein, I've had Eibach, Hyperco and Swift springs on the car, Motul, Redline, Royal Purple fluids, Dunlop Z2SS, MPSS, Firestone Indy 500's, this is a great car to tinker and learn on. https://scontent-mia3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...b3&oe=5D34634C |
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However! Wheel offset can be a noticeable change in handling, going with the +45's and extended studs means I can easily go +10 on each wheel and play with it, wish I could say I did it on purpose but I lucked into it and I'm glad I have the option. (as you can see Tony is running staggered up above, and he's underselling himself, he's got a good setup going) I forgot to mention sway bars in my above post: Front: Whiteline 20mm swaybar - full stiff, works well on a warm grippy day, but in cold and damp I'm getting a push which I think softening will help with. Rear: Stock I want the Karcepts front bar (in case someone reading this doesn't know about it), but probably won't buy it this year unless I decide to make a run at Nats in this car and I have time to test it. Quote:
Honestly, zero offense intended to anyone/everyone in this thread, but there's only one driver/car combo in this so far that I'd put money on to trophy at nats so take everything with a grain of salt. Cheers to making the thread though, I think sharing info makes everyone faster, even if it's from a scrub like myself. :burnrubber: |
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