Daily Driver Performance BRZ
 

Hey all, new to the club and been searching the forums for a while. I'm looking to buy a 2015 series blue BRZ if there are any left at a good price and low miles a year or two from now. I think I got a feel for what I really want but wanted your opinions or my wish list below.

Old Wishlist
- Delicious Tuning Edelbrock SC pkg
- Ace A350 headers
- CSG Touring 86 exhaust
- TEIN Flex A suspension or CSG Spec
- CSG Brembos brakes
- Volk ZE40 18x9.5 43 wheels or 18x10 40
- Summer tires (Michelin Pilot Super Sport 265/40ZR18)
- Winter tires (General Grabber Arctic LT LT265/70R18 (LOAD E))
- VIS Racing VRS carbon fiber hood
- Aerocatch hood pins

New wishlist
- Delicious Tuning Edelbrock SC pkg
- Radium Dual Catch Cans
- Jackson Racing Dual Radiator/Oil Cooler
- Ace A350 headers
- CSG Touring 86 exhaust
- TEIN Flex A suspension or CSG Spec
- Volk ZE40 17x9 45 wheels
- Hankook Ventus V12 Evo 2 tires 255/40
- Winter tires: using stock wheels
- MPH Hood
- Aerocatch hood pins

It’s really just up to you and what you want. Mods and upgrades do depend on where you live and what your use for the car is (track, daily driver, drift car). However, I would say to get the car first. Get it and get used to it. I had a lot of plans for my 335i but that changed. Same thing with my BRZ today. All of those mods add up so make sure you know that what you are changing on the car is really useful and truly necessary for the purpose of the car. It is yours anyways. Good luck man and welcome :cheers:

Welcome, that's a nice list.



I'd take a look at the MPH Fabrication hood.


http://www.marshpowerhousefab.com/pr...86-gtspec-hood

Come back in a year or two when you're actually ready to make a purchase.

Buying brembos again? MPSS tires? LoL
Parkhard bro.

The brakes were a recommendation from CSG. I take it, that's over kill. Never know, I may need to drift into a parking spot and it brakes hard.

Good to have goals and wishes. Save up for the car, then you can start saving for your $20k wish list.

Good luck.

OP if you are in need of my used car prices fortune telling services, plz PM me but keep in mind rates are based on the number of months out...24 months is pretty difficult for me to get an accurate divination

I'm in for the long haul with this one. Right now it is a dream. In this dream, I'm looking more for reliability which is why I chose those mods. It's better than spending $65-70K on a new supra that only has 330+ hp. Not even sure if that's whp

Random thoughts:

1) Drive the car stock first. Take it to a track day or autox. They're fun stock.

2) FI on a used motor is always a gamble.

3) Exhaust is subjective. The ACE is a good header, but it's pricey (even considering that you get an OP with it). You can get 95% of the performance for less money if you consider other options.

4) The CSG Brembos are capable, but you probably don't need them unless you're tracking the car and have a decent amount of experience already. There's nothing wrong with them, and if you want them for the cool factor, then okay. But they're not required for street use.

5) I would avoid 18x10 wheels as they're harder to fit on the front and largely unnecessary. In fact, I would stick to 17" wheels generally as they're lighter and the tires are significantly less expensive.

6) MPSS or the PS4S are fine tires, but they're by definition a compromise tire. They're not the fastest on track, and not the most cost-effective for daily. If that's what you want, then great. I used them for a while. But for me it works better to have designated daily tires and separate track tires.

7) Like said above, look into MPH hood over vis

edit: 8) If you want reliability and still plan to go FI, get an oil cooler and some catch cans.

Thank you so much for the input! Driving it stock is the plan for now. I've been doing a lot more research and I'm having an issue with the wheels and exhaust.

I'll stick with 17s since you and a lot more recommend it. The issue I'm running into is how big of a wheel and tire can I get away with if I use the coilovers but do not use camber? 10s and 9s seem to poke especially when using the calculator tool. I'm trying to go as wide as possible without rubbing. It looks like 8.5 might work but I heard they rub on hard turns. I'm also staying square just because I hear it is overall better for the car.

For the exhaust, I'm not sure what would be a good fit with the headers and stay emission compliant. If I can't, I guess I'll have to swap during inspection days.

Saving money is always a good thing and I thank you all again for the advice. Most of my research are recommendation from past post, YouTube, and companies like Delicious Tunning, csg, ft86 speed factory, and fitment. Since I'm in this for the long haul, I'm just trying to plan this out so I can buy part in bulk and as cheap as possible (Black Friday, x-mas, etc).

One last thing I wanted to add. Is the 2015 Series Blue worth getting or would it be better to get a 2013 limited?

You should check out this thread for your wheel and tire setup this should give you some ideas. http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41083

Also, yes if you can find a 2015 Series.Blue or even a 2016 model go for it. They dont seem to have all the issues that the early 2013-14 models- just to avoid any headaches.

265/40/18 is wrong. 265/35/18 works.

Your winter tires are also wrong. I'd sugest stock size tires for winter. The wider the tire, the less pressure you have per square inch. This makes "cutting" through snow or rain puddles harder and hydroplaning easier.

You can fit 9.5 wide and 265 tires without camber, so long as you have coils. But if you want meaty, I would suggest 17x9 with +35 to +45 offset, 245 or 255/40/17 tires, and -2.5* front camber. My track wheels are 17x9 +38 with 255s, and I run -3.5* camber. See pic at bottom for fitment (although those are 17x9 +35).

Not sure how your state does things, but in Texas, you can pass inspection so long as you have a tune. They only check OBD2, and so long as the computer says everything's fine, you pass.

Any 2015 is preferable to a 2013, as they made slight valvetrain changes in late 2014. 2015+ motors are slightly more reliable. Whether the series.blue is worthwhile is purely subjective. I have one, but I lost my front lip and replaced the painted calipers, so I've given up some of the uniqueness. Also, the frameless rear view mirror tends to have issues with delamination.


https://i.imgur.com/wyBWGTA.jpg