Dorman wheel stud? Just want to replace one.
One lug nut got stuck and I sheared the bolt in half with a breaker bar.
Got my wheels swapped, and I will carefully drive on 4 lugs for the time being. When I have more time, I might replace all 20 with ARP. For now, I just want to replace the one busted bolt. Has anyone verified the gold $2 Dorman bolts an acceptable substitute? http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/s...,lug+stud,7680 I just watched some videos as well. To remove, I will try a ball joint separator or hammer it out. When pulling on the new stud, how do you know the splines are lined up? Can you spin the bolt and feel it "click" into place? Also, I've read a bunch on this topic, and it seems people dislike the OEM lug nuts? Is there a popular lug nut replacement that is not bling, but just a functional upgrade. |
I have no experience with replacement studs for these cars so I don't know what will be best for you.
However, I've worked in a garage as a mechanic in the past and it is fairly easy to replace studs. To remove the stud you can hammer it out. Once it is out, you will see that the splines don't actually line up with anything, they just grab into the metal and keep it from spinning when installing and removing the lug nuts due to the stud's splines being only slightly bigger than the hole the stud goes into. To install the new stud your best bet would be to use another nut that has the same threads with a flat side on it so that you don't damage the angle on the lug nuts that is designed to match the rim by torquing it down against the flat surface of the hub. |
What he said.
It's a press fit On the brand side of thing, it's a lug stud. It's made of the same stuff oem is. |
A ball joint tool works perfectly for removal and install. I just did all my lugs. Youtube a video; it is easy.
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Good find! I've been replacing broken stock studs with these. They are much more durable. Only difference I've been paying $3 a piece for them at autozone.
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That's weird about the splines not needing to be lined up.
If you look at a photo of the hub, you can see grooves in the holes, as well. |
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Dorman studs are OEM quality generally. In the case of these cars, I actually think they are a dash better.
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i just installed one yesterday... it was pretty easy...looks stronger than the OE ones... rent the ball joint puller from autozone
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Does this one work? https://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZcCfWmrVQfM/maxresdefault.jpg |
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https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qu...tor-99849.html |
Not sure what wheels you're running, but for lug nuts I would recommend something that is smaller than the stock 19mm lugs, like 17mm would be perfect, just so you have more clearance with your socket and to prevent accidental scratching when taking on and off wheels. As for material steel lug nuts have always been better to me than aluminum ones. Aluminum ones are too soft and can get easily stripped or cross-threaded.
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I got the $3 Dorman lug bolt installed.
Got a replacement Dorman lug nut for $2 also. Used the washers, bolt, and electric impact to pull it. The splines did feel like they lined up. I got a bunch of M12 and M14 washers at HD for $2. I also got an M12x1.25 bolt for .50 cents. Better to use the open nut than a closed lug nut. DarkSide, that HF tool worked perfectly. M12-1.25 Zinc-Plated Metric Hex Nut https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...d=887480403183 14 mm Zinc-Plated Steel Flat Washer (3-Pack) https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...d=887480069587 12 mm Zinc-Plated Metric Flat Washer (5-Pack) https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...d=887480024784 Caliper slider bolts (14mm) torqued to 20 ft/lb Caliper mount bolts (17mm) torqued to 60 ft/lb |
In case I need to do this again, I am trying to remember how I REMOVED the busted stud.
Do you think I just hammered it out? I know hammering on the hub is not the best idea. |
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