Track Setup
 

2018 BRZ 1" lowered Eibach Pro Kit
17x9 +40 offset Konig Dekagram Advan Neova Ad08r 245/40. There is some front tire poke passed the fender. I have been driving this setup for 2 weeks no rubbbing issues.

According to alignment machine I have -2.5 driver rear -2.2 pass rear.
I had camber bolts installed, and they set the camber to -2 for both front tires. I was told this is a good track camber from some local guys. Also there was no poke anymore. When the mechanic came back there was big gouge along the whole tire and a burning rubber smell. Took almost 1/4" out of my almost brand new tire. The other tire was fine... I will have to replace one.

Long story short I am on the fence about what I should do. I only drive this car is my free time. Currently had 16k on it and is under lease, but I think I plan on buying it. I can live with the front tire poke, but is this an ideal set up for tracking. The front sticks out more then the rear. Should I buy spacers?

Basically my questions are?


What would be the ideal track 17x9 Yokahoma Ad08R square track setup?

This was the picture when they camber it to -2 before taking it for a test drive. We should of checked the clearance to the strut.

https://oi1295.photobucket.com/album...ps5yxtilel.jpg

https://oi1295.photobucket.com/album...pstjdywvs1.jpg

With a 17x9 (offset seems +40 from what I found) you wont be able to dial in enough camber for track use with lowering springs. Your rear camber is ok, but front is nowhere near enough. I mean, it will be enough to start, but as you corner harder you will need way more than that (or live with the fact that your tire shoulders will be to the cords and it will still be brand new on the inside basically).

Normally, a real track setup is in the -3 to -4 front camber and -2 to -3 rear camber. The tire poking out in the front is fine, not ideal, but miles better than not having enough camber.

As a bandaid for your problem, I would use 3mm or 5mm spacers on the front to clear the springs and get as much camber as you can on those bolts. As a long term solution, get coilovers that can handle track work and lower control arms for the rear and get a good track alignment.

Awesome thank you for your reply. I will have to hold off on coils at this time due to budget. I plan on going the spacer route in the meantime.

Would you recommend 3mm or 5mm spacer? Also should I replace the wheel studs with extended ones. Due to losing some thread to tighten up the lug nuts. Or will it be okay to track on the regular oem wheel studs?

3mm or 5mm is fine. Some people are anal about not using more than 3mm on OEM studs. I have to go from what I have seen/used myself, and 5mm was fine for me using r-compound tires for 2 years of tracks, car is 5 years old and I have yet to damage or strip a single stud. You do not need extended studs if you stay at 5mm or lower spacers, it doesnt hurt to have them either, so its up to you at this point.

Can you recommend which spacer to use?

Please confirm — 17x9 +40 Dekagrams clear Performance Package Brembos fine?
(Based on my experience, 17x8 +40 don't)

Confirm that the picture is real and not photoshopped?


There's a picture of it right there, I'd say it clears.

Confirm that there’s at least a 3mm gap everywhere between the spokes and the caliper; and that you didn’t need spacers to achieve that.

I’d recommend against using spacers if your goal is camber: camber bolts can only get you so much camber; and adding spacers will only make the poke worse. Instead, consider using adjustable camber plates. Many coilovers don’t come with camber plates, so getting them now might be a good investment.

If you are stock power might i suggest 17x8 with 225/45 ?

It won't clear the Performance Package brakes, at least without spacers

Ah that sucks.

ARP studs are easy to install, makes it easy to run whatever spacers you want, and with open ended lugs makes tire changes much easier/faster than stock

Truth. AFWIW - the studs on mine from the factory were made of wax apparently. Even being super careful - brushing off threads with a wire brush ocassionally, blowing junk out of the lugs before re-threading, etc - Once they hit like 10 track day cycles (wheels on off, change pads, change tires, etc) they dropped like flies. I had more than a handful die - either stripping, jamming, but only had one that broke off...

Any updates on how you solved it?
Any new photos? :popcorn: