Replacement 'stock' rotor suggestions for track?
Howdy, y'all. I have started doing more track events, which has led me to run harder front brake pads, which is now leading me to this: I am looking for SSC legal rotors that are inexpensive, won't warp, and do what they are supposed to do. I generally buy Brembo rotors but I am open to suggestions. Centric? Toyota dealership? Interested in your thoughts. Thank you.
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Basic solid iron rotors . Duralast, Centric, etc. they will last a long time even on a track car and they are cheap to replace. IMHO this is one place you don’t really need to “upgrade “.
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Rockauto.com
Centric C-tek are usually cheapest and work fine on track so far. The rotor hats just aren't coated so they can get surface rust. |
Most of the local guys I know using stock rotor styles are using Centrics, so pretty much just echoing what has already been said here.
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I am running KNS Brakes blanks; they are re-branded DBA.
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+1 for Centric.
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Cheap Centrics are just fine for your application.
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Quote:
No drilling!! Whatever you do, no drilling. Cast-in holes are ok, but you lose friction surface. Good cast-in vent channels between the inner and out faces are the way to go. So, yeah, cheapo cast rotors = happy brakes and happy drivers! |
With Centric (fronts) you have 3 P/Ns ranging from $22-45.
1) 121 (c-tek) 2) 120 (premium) 3) 125 (high carbon) These all end in 47021 (ex: 125-47021) I've been competitively w2w racing for 14 years on a car that is wildly under-braked. I would put C-Tek on my street car all day long (my ford expedition loves them) but I have found that I actually saved money by spending more on the rotor due to a greater life cycle. I finally ended up committing solely to the High-Carbon (125) series. They have an incredible resistance to cracking due to multiple hot-cold duty cycles which makes them ideal for hard track use and daily driving. Here's the difference on my race car: - Brembo blanks/autozone/cheap Chinese = <1 race weekend. Maybe 2 rotors in a single weekend (unacceptable). - 120 Series = 2 races, usually 2 whole race weekends (very good on my car) and then I would pro-actively change due to cracking - 125 Series = 3-4 race weekends which is outstanding. So I went from changing rotors every race to every 4 races which for the extra $ spend on the 125 rotors is a huge money/time savings. On a car like the FRS which has a much better "brake-to-weight" calculation than my underbraked race car, expect quite a bit of life out of 125 series. |
+1 for centric premiums
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I agree that cheap centric would work well. I have oem-fitment DBA T3 one piece and love them, but can't say they're THAT much better and are sizably more expensive.
I had overheating issues on track so I went that way because they supposedly have superior cooling due to design. I have since not had anywhere near as much trouble with too much heat in the brakes, so I DO like them though... |
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