Stock pistons "rate ore hate" ?
 

Going Supercharged next race season (2017) and of course i want a forged bottom end.
But planing on keep the stock compression ratio, and that's were my thoughts wonder of :iono:
Why spend money on something that's seem to do the job?
Is there even any of you in here that have suffered from blown pistons on FI? (Don't mean NASA astronomical hp outputs now)
Why just don't get forged rods, gasket set and bearings and go whit oem pistons, the car wouldn't go past what a HKS V3 or Jackson kit deliver on E85 anyway.

Well if your already in there, may as well replace them :iono:

True Chainz

My thought process too, OEM pistons haven't failed.. For mild HP (less than 400WHP) why not keep OEM ones.

Swapping out means boring and honing block, sizing new rings, and messing with piston to wall clearances.

Would love to hear some feedback other than "already in there" assuming the labor to pull the engine and opening it is not considered..

In for answers on this. I'm curious as well. I'm considering building my motor as some point to be reliable enough for the amount of power a JRSC with high boost pulley can make on E85.

I would talk to shops and get build quotes. I would be surprised to see someone open a motor and not hone the cylinders and install new rings, even when reusing pistons. I'm just not seeing much of a savings.

Wasn't there a design change to the pistons after the early cars? I seem to remember reading about later pistons having more skirt added to them to keep them better aligned in the cylinders.

If anything I just said is true and you have an early car, then go with pistons of the newer design.

-Justin

But this is the thing for me.
I'm not afraid of doing the engine my self (that's the fun part of you asked me) have som experience of the EJ257 in the past.
So there will be no shop doing the engine, and there for it will be cost effective for me to djust mark the pistons to keep track of where they were, hecke it's a low mileage car/engine so why even bother honing the cylinders and change the piston rings, if I don't see too much wear on the cylinders and piston/rings off course.
And yes I have gone that road before, the motor is already apart, change everything, but not this time around I guess, do there seems to be nothing wrong whit the oem ones, on moderately power goals :iono:

Pistons need to come out to change rods. There are no wrist pin access holes like the ej series. Not a big deal but just letting you know.

Stock pistons will give up around the wrist pin if they do fail, but you should be fine on non-astronomical power levels.

Few people have lifted the heads somewhere in the vicinity of 400. ARP fasteners and all that are a no-brainer on any build.

when you remove the pistons and rings, they will not be in the exact same orientation that they mated to the bore in when you install again.

the main thing with changing the pistons is that it allows you to drop the compression ratio which is very necessary for big power builds but otherwise I'd agree the stock item is well made and not the weak link of this engine

I don't see anything wrong with stock compression on big power builds. We've got folks running forged 12.5:1 compression pistons with over 600whp. :iono:

Sincerely,

Zach
Delicious Tuning

Yes did notice that on the FA20, butt personally I don't think that the absence of galley holes/ service holes is a biggi :)

Yeah will go over the heads to and look over the rockers and beef upp the valve springs :thumbup:

Piston rings are not locked down and are freely to rotate on the piston.
But I under stand what you mean.
But i find it highly unlikely that the cylinders has warped on a low mileage car, so that the piston rings has gotten the egg shaped to.
But off course I can measure the cylinders (don't know how to spel the measure meant tool and procedures in English :bonk: )