Whiteline crossmember bushing insert review
 

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Hello!

I have finally installed this bushings kit : Whiteline KDT922

Sorry if I repeat some comments from others users, I just want to share my feeling on this.

I really love the feeling, I just drive from my friend garage to my house in the snowstorm last night after the installation and I have already saw the difference. The back is more stable and predictable... More easy to oversteer. You will also direct feel the power who go directly to the wheels and the back doesn't feel to drop anymore.

No more NVH I confirm and the car stay always comfortable

I can't wait to feel the difference on the dry Tarmac.

Not difficult to install, you have a good DIY here : http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20920

Important :

You really need to take care when you remove the bolts from the car chassis. They are supposed to be very easy to screw up. For me, I got some troubles with one on the rear. Not stripped finally, but only more tight cause of some metal from the chassis hole come with the bolt during we unscrew them. Then just rescrew it and unscrew it some time to fix the problem.

You are not supposed to force any bolts. Take care because It's very easy to misaligned the holes with the subframe when you move it to insert bushings. And if you striped an holes on the chassis, you will be in the shit, I can say...

Start with the 2 rears bushing and finish with the 2 others on the front.

It's a quick install then you can take your time.

I do mine with 4 candles and a jack to support and drop the rear subframe to inserts bushings.

Definitely take care with the bolts, my drivers side rear isn't crossthreaded but became way too tight near the end, not sure if due to debris or bad threads or what. I ended up backing it out and blowing out the hole with forced air but it still had some issues and I ended up shimming the bolt because it was already reaching about 80ft-lbs. I bought another couple bolts and will be shortening one of them. Keep all four bolts loose when you get them started so the subframe can move around a bit.

You mean you run the car with the bolts loose? Or you only start it?

^^ He means get all four bolts threaded in part way instead of putting them in one at a time and fully tightening.

You need the subframe to be able to move around to get the bolts properly aligned, if you put one in at a time and tighten first you'll never get the last bolt or two in.

In both cases you need to properly torque all four bolts down before driving.

Ok but if you do it rear first and on second you make the front, like into de DIY, you are not supposed to have any problems :)

Just take your time.

Don't fully tighten down the rears until you have the front bolts correctly re-threaded after putting the inserts in. Even then though it didn't help me out since I still couldn't get one bolt to thread correctly 100%.

It's also not a bad idea to get an alignment after doing this, the subframe movement can definitely throw off your alignment settings.

Am not sure we need an alignment because the subframe it is exactly at the same place like before you Whitelined it.

The hole into the chassis can't move :). I know maybe the subframe is more tight compare to stock.

I will ask Whiteline tech to be sure and I will let you know!

You would be surprised what you can change by moving it around and then tightening it back down. It fixes some of the problems people have had with very uneven camber left to right.

Definitely this. I couldn't get the rears back in, so I went and loosened the fronts and was able to easily get the rears all. You want to make sure that all 4 can be handthreaded in a long way before you need the wrench. As long as all 4 have slack it is not a problem.

And I think it may have shifted my alignment - before I was zero toe in the rear, now the passenger side seems to have 1mm toe in and the driver side seems to have 1 mm toe out. Camber seems the same, although ride height may have dropped by a few mm? Will check again tomorrow since it should all be settled by then.

I installed these yesterday and completely ruined the threads in one of the holes by cross threading it, had to buy a M14x1.5 tap & die and re-tap the hole (taps that size are very expensive).
Don't make the mistake I did. If the bolt isn't going in by hand, take it out and try again, don't force it!

Whiteline crossmember bushing insert review
 

Exactly, you really need to take care off because you will really get fucked.

In my case, like I say I in the first post, one bolt are come very hard to screw after 2 turns cause of some metal appear into this during I unscrew them.

It's an easy mod who can become really bad.

Like I say and all others say, take you time and follow our advices.

Just a quick question, when did they change the color from yellow to black?

M14x1.5 is a pretty common tap size since I think some oil pans are that size. Worst case they make helicoils and other inserts but that would really be a last resort option if you screw things up. I ordered a new M14x1.5 tap from Amazon and I'll have to use it at some point to fix my driver's side rear hole. I have about a 1/4" shim (washer) in place right now that is exactly 14mm and don't want to leave it like that too long.

Whiteline crossmember bushing insert review
 

Check the link I have posted here http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59424

It's very recent.

The reply from Whiteline : To answer your question, it would be best to have the alignment checked as there may be a slight change in toe.
Camber should be ok as both arms are mounted to the sub-frame. Not super important but worth checking after installing a performance product.