Everyone arguing against electric FI is on the wrong side of history. It's an inevitability. Might not be there yet, but one day it will rule all. It's just not today.
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I'm going to be down there in about 3 weeks can I get a ride along ?
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I've priced out some options too and I'm sorta along the lines like you. But from what I've priced, you're looking closer to $7000 out the door. That's for an fa20club 60trim kit with all the ecutek stuff and a tune. Unless you can weld, you won't be able to go turbo under $5000. You may be able to swing an Innovate SC kit for under $5000 but that kit just won't get me to where I want to be hp wise. As well, there's not much head room for making lots of power with that kit so turbo is definitely the only option. I too would like a 260-280whp on 94 octane and be super safe and conservative. Ultimately, ~400whp is where I'd wanna be and going turbo will definitely make it easier.
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I don't think anyone is trying to challenge superiority. Its clear its not competing with anything, rather, the P-ESC is creating a new tier in FI options, at least in 2014 that is. Whose to say the potential in the next year+ ... could be great
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It can be done for the 5-6k range.
Here is a low end turbo build: JDL EL Precision 48mm Billet Wheel Journal Bearing Turbo $3349 Omni 3 bar MAP $95 Ecutek License & Cable $650 Innovate LC-2 Wideband + Display (if desired) $165 Dyno time & Tuning fee's $600 Exedy Stage 1 Clutch + Flyhweel $400 Koyo Radiator $329 Total: $5580.00 Sure there are more things you could add like a fan shroud, exhaust upgrades, gauges if you wanted, etc. Mind you this is all at going rates, a lot of places may cut you a deal if you are buying a bunch of stuff at once. |
Also if running lower boost you could go without the Omni 3 bar and the clutch... That saves $495 making the total $5085. Although this depends on the driver. I had 360WHP/260WTQ and it took a while before my clutch started to slip. I had ordered a new one and finally started pushing it to see what it would take to make it slip and I was quite surprised how it held up. But I don't do the whole drag racing thing my self.
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radiator isn't necessary unless you're tracking the car. i live in florida, drive like an asshole (sometimes), and my car doesn't overheat. the wideband however is not optional. you'll need a boost gauge as well.
supporting mods really depend on how you plan to use the car. when i first did my turbo the car was 100% stock, and it worked well that way until the clutch went. the most beneficial thing i've done so far has been the full exhaust. |
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Care to expand on full exhaust beneficence :) Sent from my IBrick |
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So Boom there you have it. 5k 250HP kit right there. I also figured you would jump in the boat for no boost gauge by using boost cut. I recommend having gauges personally. |
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