I too am curious about your results with the DICs. I've seen from various sources that the 10-15 hp seems to be pretty consistent.

I'm also really curious about your results with the throttle body. Since I didn't buy the kit, I have to buy an adapter anyway. I've been holding on the adapter but the Bosch 74mm is very tempting even though everything I could find is it's a pretty minor improvement.

Thanks for the updates!

What makes the Verus a pain to adjust? I actually haven't seen a set with the poly option so it is difficult to visualize. :)

Yeah, the TB is kind of a crap shoot. I wish they'd retained the o-ring style gasket that Porsche and most of the other Bosch adapters I've seen do. I'd have bought this if I knew then what I know now (and still might, dunno yet). I assume it'll work.

https://i.imgur.com/sizcASG.png

https://www.ichiban.engineering/prod...e-body-adapter[/s]

Edit: This won't work since it is actually for a RBB/RBC TB shape after reading more closely
Edit2: They say they have an adapter for the B series TB, option is now back on the table

I like that adapter, thanks for posting. I wonder if if will clear the EP3 pulley? I might have to 3d print one to try. Better yet I should just send it to you to test fit.

Did you get your TB off rock auto?

Haha, if you want to sketch up a quick model I will print it and test fit.

I bought from Amazon since it came out a bit cheaper than RockAuto after shipping. Part number is 0280750474

We ran a single end of calendar year event at Arizona Motorsports Park CCW today, turned out that we only got one clean session before it absolutely poured all day.

I somehow managed to break the existing TT5 track record in the first (non-warmup) session of the morning on a lap that was like two seconds quicker than it felt. Nothing special about the lap at all, didn't feel that clean, etc. Finished first of eight in class.

https://youtu.be/IDkJKf9jerY

I dunno - car is super good balance wise for me right now, easy to drive, and just works.

update: This is outdated.


Current state of the car mod wise:

Engine
JDM Honda K24A
50* VTC Gear
KPower Intake Manifold / Intake / Header
BRZ DBW Throttle Body
Perrin 3” Exhaust
ID1050x Injectors
Haltech Elite 1500 ECU
K24Z Upper Timing Chain Guide
Generic Aluminum Lower Timing Chain Guide
Doryoku CNC Baffled Valve Cover
Vibrant Catch Can w/ Vibrant Baffle
Setrab Series 9 25 Row Oil Cooler
Radium Surge Tank inside custom box
Radium In-Tank Fuel Pump Hanger
Radium Fuel Filter
Radium Fuel Pulse Damper
Verus Radiator w/ Spal Fans
DW300c Fuel Pump

Drivetrain
OEM Exedy Clutch / Pressure Plate
KPower Flywheel
Verus Clutch Pivot
Verus Clutch Fork
Shortened BRZ 2pc Driveshaft
OSGiken LSD
Cusco Diff Cover

Suspension
Shaftworks 1-way Coilovers - (392lb / 616lb) / (7k / 11k)
Perrin 22mm Front Bar
Stock Rear Bar
Whiteline Roll Center Correction Kit
Superpro Front Lower Control Arm Bushings w/ Caster Offset
Perrin Steering Rack Stay
Salasko Racing Solid Rear Subframe and Diff mounts
RacerX Front and Rear Adjustable Sway Bar End Links

Brakes
2020 BRZ ABS Unit
Stoptech 355mm Front BBK
Stoptech 345mm Rear BBK
CSG C2 Pads

Exterior
Verus Engineering Hood Vents
Verus Engineering High Efficiency Wing
4” Flat Home Depot Racing Splitter
Verus Engineering Air Dam
JDL Crash bar

Interior
Cage built by TC Design
Sparco Pro Adv w/ PCI racing slider seat mount
Sparco Evo 2 w/ PCI racing slider seat mount
Schroth Profi 2 6 Point Harnesses
Lifeline 2.25kg FIA Fire suppression system
Beastronix Nanny Hard Wired to Vehicle CAN
OMP WRC Steering Wheel
Works Bell QR
Cartek Battery Isolator

Alignment / Ride Height
23" bottom of fender lip to fender with 18" wheels
-3.75* Front Camber / Stock Rear Camber
0 Toe Front and Rear

Actual Car Weight w/ Driver and Zero Fuel: ~2820lb
Power: 202WHP Peak / 196WHP NASA Average

2022 NASA TT5 Classing Claims:
2802lb Min Weight
203whp Average
257mm Tire
+1.6 Tire
Non-OEM Brakes
A-Arm Suspension
Non-OEM Bushings (Roll center correction is the hit here)
Flat Splitter

Notes: Underpowered, bit overweight.

2023 NASA TT5 Classing Plan:
2820lb Min Weight
200whp Average
257mm Tire
+1.6 Tire (Maxxis RC1 or Toyo RR)
Non-OEM Brakes
A-Arm Suspension
Non-OEM Bushings (Roll center correction is the hit here)
Flat Splitter

Notes: NASA adjusted TT5 from 14.0 to 14.5 power to weight for 2023, as well as reduced the A-Arm hit from .7 to .5.

I'm weighing my options on classing going forward, I think that the 255 Toyo RR will fit into the 257mm template on a 9.5 like the 255 AR1 that I have been running. Maxxis doesn't make a 245 or a 255 in 18, just a 265. The Maxxis 265 won't fit into the 257mm template and it barely squeezes into the 266mm template.

Maxxis pros: Better contingency than Toyo, I personally like them and have been through a fair few sets

Maxxis cons: 266 tire takes a .3 hit over 257. 2823lb min weight claimed with this hit gives me my exact current 196whp.

I can also drop the splitter and run 203whp average on the Maxxis or 207whp average on the Toyo.

Clearly the car is not super optimized for 5 without buying a set of PP brakes to get the .2 brake hit back and going down to 17s for cheaper tire options, but we will see. Pricing on used PP brakes is just stupid and I haven't bought a set out of principal.

I wasn't a fan of it, but I ended up cutting the stock EPAS CAN wires and put a DTM connector in.

https://i.imgur.com/8ta3RCZ.jpg

However, it lets me easily swap between stock EPAS and an adjustable EPAS controller that I'll be testing this weekend at a private track day.

https://i.imgur.com/ZdBg0i0.jpg

Just mounted it on top of my hardwired Beastronix, which I intend on getting rid of sooner than later

https://i.imgur.com/VLuECpz.jpg

Using it in basic fixed assist mode for now.

https://i.imgur.com/qEqgMJz.jpg

No EPS light

https://i.imgur.com/1h6uXBf.jpg

It's pretty cool, I can adjust the assist with a potentiometer, set it manually with my phone over wifi, automatically control it via PWM from Haltech, build an assist vs VSS map, etc. It also allows sending messages back to the stock CANBUS to prevent the annoying red EPS light from showing up on the dash.

Outputs is also available for duty, vss, temp, error, etc.

I'll post some more details on it after this weekend. The intent is to solve the power steering assist cut issue.

Can’t wait to know more.

I’m using an 86 eps system (and column) in fail safe mode on another project, but having a method to control assist level could be handy.

Sorry just now responding to this, they're just a bit of a pain to lock down and tighten with the double nuts on the rod end and its a tight fit with the size nuts they used to get wrench in there to tighten them down. The SPL ones use the pinch-style piece on the rod end which is much easier. There's probably a way to get that part elsewhere with the correct thread pitch, I just never really spent a lot of time on it.

Went back to Attesa to run Podium Club CW config yesterday at a private event.

On a lap with a bunch of mistakes I went 1:43, which is a second quicker than the TT5 record and four seconds a lap quicker than I went last time I was here two months ago.

I think that can be attributed to:
1. Car setup much, much improved
2. More seat time in the car
3. Taking advantage of the cool weather early

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3WxKCtmxog

I let a friend who runs a TT5 2022 GR86 / used to run a 2015 BRZ in TT5 drive the car for a session and he said the car felt significantly more stable than his and felt much better in the mid range. He also said the tire feedback is non-existent (Nankang AR1s)... which made me feel like I'm not crazy. He was within a few tenths of his GR lap time wise (1:46).

While he was out in my car I drove a friend's S2000 and I was once again reminded how much I love how those cars work. Super easy rotation under braking and puts the power down early extremely well. I did a 1:46 in that with the owner as passenger.

I had a couple issues with the car, both throttle related, but still managed to put 90 track miles on it before another throttle body bolt broke and I was unable to extract it at the track.

DBW codes + DBW disabled issues:
P0228 - DBW TPS 1 Voltage High
P2109 - DBW TB Disabled
P2135 - DBW TPS 1 Voltage Correlation
P2165 - DBW Throttle 1 Relaxed Sensor Mismatch Settings

Had to limp back to the pits with 6th gear idle. Both times it happened when I was on my cooldown lap and in the same spot. One of the pins on the TB was kinda scorched. I switched the DBW to only read TPS sensor 2 instead of averaging them and it didn't happen again, obviously not a solution or super safe but it is how I finished the day.

https://i.imgur.com/ZPsPRcB.jpg

Oh well, more to figure out before the next event. :)

Failed at extracting the broken bolt from the TB so I ended up cutting a fiber gasket, using 10.9 bolts with nordlocks, and switched to the Bosch 74mm TB while I wait for the Ichiban adapter to arrive.

https://i.imgur.com/EZgg4Wm.jpg

You can see from the compressed KPower 74mm rubber gasket that there is barely any material in a couple of spots so I'm not bothering to try running it.

https://i.imgur.com/4ENUPqj.jpg

Went to install the Drag Cartel DICs but I ended up finding that a piece of the valve cover baffle had cracked, gotten sucked into the exhaust cam trigger wheel, and wrapped around the exhaust cam angle sensor. Fortunately, it didn't cause any damage and the car was running fine as-is. I also found a couple of other baffle pieces that had cracked and were about to drop.

https://i.imgur.com/QXjRj2G.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/7axgZJ9.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/oNMaJPi.jpg

A little bit of a side quest, but after further consideration I realized I made a mistake going to a side baffle valve cover and I'll be moving back to a stock K valve cover with the rear vent.

Dropped in the Drag Cartels and put a 3mm pin into the VTC gear to limit it to 40* max. After talking to DC a bit I opted to buy a piece of 1/16" steel rod to cut my own limiter (close to 1.5mm) which would limit VTC to 45*, which I swapped in afterwards.

https://i.imgur.com/nPAeKBN.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4XHhn4O.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6EE9Tr4.jpg

My reasoning for choosing the DC DICs instead of something larger was because I don't want to rev the stock bottom end over 7800. These should peak somewhere roughly around 7400 while also making power everywhere else, rather than trading midrange for making power to 8000 or beyond. I also get to leave the stock valve train alone and they're easy on the cam chain tensioner, which is a known weak spot on the K.

Sorry about the picture, but same dyno as I was tuned on in May. Green line was the original dyno, 205whp peak. Only changes for the red graph are the cams and 74mm throttle body, along with ~15f ambient lower. 230whp.

https://i.imgur.com/C9xSgPb.jpg

Final picture with my three tunes going forward:

https://i.imgur.com/nZDQO1N.jpg

~230whp/198ftlb max power tune
205whp flat tune
200whp flat tune

Also, given the no point one adjustable rear arm rule change for next year, I ended up pulling the RacerX RUCAs out of my blue car and swapping in a set of stock RUCAs. Going to clean them up and put them into the white car for a bit more rear camber and some weight savings.

https://i.imgur.com/3izZ1op.jpg

redlined600 mentioned to me that ASMotorsports uses an intake manifold brace on their race car swap package cars, so I started poking around a bit. One other thing I noticed in the picture is nordlocks on the alternator bolts. He also recommends a steel flywheel over an aluminum one.

https://i.imgur.com/F8WM78u.png

https://www.shopasmotorsports.com/k-...ngine-packages

I have an ATI damper coming in a week or two and I'll be making some kind of manifold brace here soon.

Appointment for the local NASA classing dyno is Jan 13th, then it goes right to the first events of the season on Jan 14/15 at Arizona Motorsports Park.

255/35/18 Toyo RRs are -STILL- nationally backordered with no ETA.

Any ideas on what else he's doing to mitigate vibrations besides what's mentioned? I don't see anything obvious that stands out other than the mention of flywheel and the intake brace. He also mentions ATI damper but most of his pics show Fluidampr. Curious why he changed over or forgot to update his text on the site?



When I get ready to do cams and head I may see about making an intake brace using the TB cable holder since I'm using the vent where ASM is bolting the bracket. Also ordering up some of those nord locks. The brace probably helps a ton for the TB movement?

When I talked to him, he said both worked. He suspected the ati was superior but had no proof. Elsewhere I found a graph where they tested the fluid damper and it was indicating that the damping effect falls off at high rpm.

I almost hesitate to post this since I have no source or context but in this test the it appears that the ATI out performs the Fluidampr at high RPM.
https://i.imgur.com/QzDDIhs.jpg