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but why/where did people learn of the 86 heritage? i never knew of intial d or wangan midnight until well after i had decided to purchase the car and started looking into it further. at that point, manga's/anime were the same thing, and were only for the cheeto-covered comic book lurkers. but without even searching, i can tell you about marty mcfly's obsession was with a 1985 black sr5 xtracab that was a single year option with the old-style solid front axle, but the new style body. that set of roll bars has sent me down rabbit holes that i'm almost too ashamed to even admit to... https://silodrome.com/back-to-the-future-toyota-hilux/ toyota even did a promo 2016 tacoma re-make. it was a 1-off-wonder though. they never sold parts for it, and most was custom-fabbed https://www.motortrend.com/news/back...-back-to-1985/ i've tried finding a source for the light bar-- it doesn't exist anywhere, i've got ideas to build my own. it's the only reason i've priced out hydraulic tubing benders. |
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So that's not any deficiency of the stock brakes. I'd bet the "Performance Pack" cars with Brembo's are using the exact same fluid as the non-Brembo cars. |
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And I say this as somebody who blew money on a BBK. And then put akebono ceramics on them just like the stock pads lol. |
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"I want to do X" "Ok, why do you want to do X? What behavior are you trying to correct?" *crickets* Hell, I want to do a BBK just because it would look awesome behind my wheels and I have no intention of tracking mine. |
Want my wheels more horizontal to the local grav gradient and make the car hover.
Simples, right? |
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The Brembos are red. That's about it.
The stock brakes will engage the ABS, which means they're more than capable of applying the maximum braking force the tires can grip under. If you want to stop better/faster, you need grippier tires, not bigger brakes. As others have said, the conditions matter more than anything else - on a track you're going to heat your brakes to the point where you start to boil the stock brake fluid. THAT is going to immediately tank your braking ability just like if you didn't bleed the lines and left air in there. So that's why "better" brake fluid is basically required for track days (it has a higher boiling point at the cost of being more hydroscopic, meaning it'll yank water out of the air faster and go bad sooner. It's also more expensive.) Pads for the same overall reason - stock pads are built for road use: low noise, low dust. But at high temps they wear faster to the point that on a track you'll burn them up super fast - like the first day probably. I mean, the Brembos do look cool with the white lettering on the red, but there is a LOT you can do to make the brakes "better" for a tenth the cost, then get some high-temp red paint and make the stock calipers pretty. |
More details...
https://www.caranddriver.com/reviews...package-drive/
According to this article, the brake upgrade is more than the calipers... larger rotors and pads are part of it too. As the linked article states: not a huge difference in bite... and a fluid change is recommended. I imagine the larger rotors, coupled with good fluid and pads will make this a nice upgrade for the occasional HPDE user. |
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It's just not tough enough for track use. |
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Then I'll the AP Sprint kit which is a better setup for tracking than the OEM Brembo setup..........and it knocks 20lbs off the nose of the car. |
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Just upgraded tires, fluids, pads, and -2 degrees are all I want/need/use. |
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